As Laya and I came to UK during COVID period, I had no expectations for a long travel anytime soon, let alone stepping out of our lovely little town. I was content and grateful too for a healthy and safe time with my family.
And then, COVID second wave just about finished here. Summer began, lockdown eased, Laya started going to school, life was almost normal ( or the new normal of mask, sanitizers and 2m distance). On one such laid back Saturday, as we watched a random movie with coffee & crisps in hand, this conversation started suddenly, like it does.
“ You know what I wanna do? Get packing, stay at a nice hotel, get ready in the morning, go sight-seeing, click lots of pictures, return to the hotel all tired and sleep like a baby, come home later to reminisce the journey and look at all those pictures. When was the last time we did that?” I said.
It was just a fantasy and I didn’t imagine that exactly 2 months later we would embark on one of the most memorable journeys of our lives.
Stage one : Planning
This was an exciting phase. Nailing down places to visit, deciding the number of days and mode of transport and so on. We decided on Scotland as it would be within UK and is supposed to be quite scenic. As we did not want to risk travelling by public transport due to obvious reasons, this ended up to be a road trip. So we rented a car, booked hotels, ferries etc. Everything was sorted, but then Glasgow (where we were to spend a night) was in level 3 meaning no tourists were allowed. We tweaked our plans again to include Lake District (no regrets there!) and it turned out to be an excellent decision. By the time we decided this, Laya fell sick followed by us. It was a tension-filled week as we were to travel soon and didn’t know if it would be possible at all. But thankfully we all tested negative and recovered in time for our much awaited journey. A day before travel, I prepared a detailed itinerary and completed the Lake District bookings.
Stage 2 & the Ultimate: The Travel!!
Day 1 : Travel to Edinburgh
We started off in the morning hoping to reach Edinburgh by later afternoon and planning to roam the city at night and dining out. As it was a long weekend, the roads were busy and we got to our rooms only by night. The drive was rewarding though! Clear blue sky with whisps of cotton-candy clouds and abundance of mustard fields on the way! We had a pit stop at Mainsgill farm near the Scotch corner. A beautiful little farm with fresh produce including farm-made ice creams & a lot of cattle including cows, donkeys, ostriches, emus, sheep, alpacas and double-humped camels! Layakutty had a memorable time there and it was refreshing for all of us. A couple of hours later, we reached the border. To add to our much anticipated arrival, the entire area with the “welcome to Scotland” signpost & flag was quite mystically foggy and cold! About ten minutes later, as we moved on the weather became sunny again. I was amazed to think this is Scotland welcoming us for an unforgettable week ahead. And unforgettable, it was.
Day 2 : Edinburgh - St Andrews
We had pre-booked a tour of the palace of Holyroodhouse ( the Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh and the home of Scottish Royal history) and that’s were we began our day. Soon after that we took a walk along the Royal Mile, which is a one mile long street between the palace and the Edinburgh castle. With shops, restaurants, street side shows and kilt clad people playing bagpipes in at every corner, this street was bustling with activities and the walk was fun. On the way, we checked out the ‘Elephant House cafe’ which is claimed as the birthplace of Harry Potter as J K Rowling frequented the place while writing her books. The table we sat on had the view of Edinburgh Castle on a cliff top and it looked a lot like Hogwarts to me. I imagined how J K Rowling may have sat at the same place and looked over the window at the castle while writing about Hogwarts. A notice on the wall read that other writers like Ian Rankin and Alexander McCall Smith also frequented this cafe! How cool.
After the cafe, we walked on towards the castle, passing by the colourful walls of Victoria street. In the afternoon, we drove town to the town of St Andrews (birthplace of golf) and spent some time at a beach by the remains of a castle. The drive itself was scenic with grassy landscapes and lots of sheep.
We took the coastal route on the way back to experience the beautiful sunset and twilight colours of the sky embracing the sea.
Day 3 - Edinburgh - Kinlochleven
We started early to the enchanting highlands of Scotland. Our first stop was the Kelpies, the sculptures of the heads of two larger-than-life horse-like mythical creatures looking over a waterbody. The Kelpies are rumoured to have been inhabiting the waters of Scotland like the fabled Loch-Ness monster. We drove by Sterling and lunched at Blair Drummond Smiddy Farm shop. Passing by the scenic town of Callander, we got our first glimpse of the highlands. And mountains were a part of everywhere we looked, for the next three days! We stopped at Lake Lubnaig on the way and as I enjoyed the cool, calm and clear waters, Laya picked up pebbles to throw at the water. By the end of our journey, Laya has collected quite a few pebbles from each place we visited, her own little souvenir.
Rannoch Moor was the first highlight of the highlands. My camera was on throughout the stretch and there was a lot to take in. Just the majesticity of it all was incredible. And then we reached Glencoe. We stopped at a point hoping to go on a pre-planned hike. But we missed the route and ended up going on an entire other walk which was not as easy. The experience was rewarding though, with green landscape, a lake way below and a nearing waterfall! I was surprised to see how easily Laya walked up and down and how excited she was about it. This was our encouragement to go on several more treks over the coming days.
This day’s twilight time was spent on a drive through Glen Etive, 12 miles of nature showing off its best. Mountains & lakes and mountains & lakes is how Laya describes the Highlands.
That night we checked-in at Edencoille guest house at Kinlochleven where everything was just so pretty, from garden gnomes to porcelain figurines and marmalade jars. The windows of our rooms framed mountains. That night we dined on cup noodles as unfortunately we got caught up in the scenery and forgot to hit the restaurants before their early closing hours due to COVID.
Day 4 - Fort William - Isle of Skye
We started our day at the Nevis Range by taking a Gondola ride up to 650m above the sea level and then hiking a bit more. The mountains were snow-capped like calendar images of the Himalayas and the Alps! It was picturesque.
Our next stop was Glenfinnan Viaduct to watch the steam engine (Hogwarts Express). I was amused to see the number of people perched over nearby hills to get a better view of the passing train. The experience was okay-ish for us as we aren’t new to seeing trains, but the beauty of the highlands did add its charm to it.
We had pre-booked a ferry from Mallaig to Armadale at Isle of Skye. As we rushed to catch the ferry on time, I was excited to be on water and take in the view of skyline around it. But to our disappointment, we had to remain in the car while on the ferry and nothing much was visible. The only way to know we were on water was by the slow lull of the ferry, that too required some concentration to notice! The disappointment didn’t last long though.
As we entered Isle of Skye, we were welcomed by the setting sun in between the M shaped mountain ranges just like our childhood drawings! We had booked a house for two days through AirBnB at Carbost. This house was located right by a lake and opposite Tallisker Distillery, the second largest in Scotland. The windows of the house had views of the calm blue-green lake with a boat parked here and there like within a photo frame.
Day 5 - Isle of Skye
Our plan was to go around the famous Trotternish Loop. On the way to our first stop, we stopped in between to view turquoise waters on the way! Turquoise being my favourite colour, this was something on my bucketlist since forever and I felt lucky to have stumbled upon this view unexpectedly.
Later we reached Fairy Glen, a bunch of Hillocks overlooking massive rock formations, a pond and an ancient stone circle that’s supposed to have magically formed by itself. Everything screamed magic about this place. The hillocks reminded me of Vagamon in Kerala. We had a nice time climbing up and down before we headed to Quiraing, another vantage point to take-in the scenic brilliance of Skye.
Our next stop was Kilt rock and Mealt falls. The view of the sea from this point is what caught my eye here. Blue clear water with pebbles visible way below. The next place is my list was Rubha nam Brathairean or Brother’s point. Finding this spot wasn’t easy and it was a 2KM walk downwards and it was all worth it. This place was the cherry on top. Throughout the walk we had sheep for company and Laya tried to befriend a few of them, all the while engaging them in potty-training conversations. The walk ended by the sea. A pebble beach with blue waters from which I just couldn’t take my eyes off, lined on both sides by cliffs and hills. A small Brooke was running on another side where the cutest lamb was grazing with vigour. A few years back, several dinosaur footprints were uncovered at this place! The climb back up required a lot more stops in between to catch my breath, and the view from each point was energising. Laya said goodbye to the sheep after promising them a letter as soon as she got back home. I fondly remembered scenes from Heidi.
After stopping for lunch at Portree at a restaurant that claims to have been visited by Allu Arjun, we continued to our sunset point of the day, Neist point. The drive itself was memorable and as we reached the destination, we could see several caravans parked and tents erected for the night. As the weather got chilly suddenly, Laya didn’t wish to walk much. Though we didn’t walk up to the light house there, whatever we got to see was just as beautiful. “Mountains and waters” in Laya’s words, joined by the sun playing peekaboo behind the clouds!
Day 6 - Isle of Skye - Carlisle
We checked out of our little stay at 10 AM and visited the Tallisker distillery for a whiskey tour. Unfortunately they were fully booked till July due to less number of intakes and fewer slots due to COVID. Then we went to the one place in Trotternish loop that we had missed the previous day; The old man of Storr. The hike up to see the old man was 4.5KM and we did not go all the way up. But we did our bit, enjoyed the view, Laya plucked a few wildflowers and then we said by to Skye and embarked on our longest drive yet back to England. The drive by Loch Lomond on the way was exceptional.
Day 7 - Lake District
In this journey, most of the places we visited were ones that we do not tire of. They can be experienced in a day, a week or hundred days and still each moment would be all the more memorable. There are several walking trails ranging from 1 mile to 150 miles, easy to moderate and extremely risky walks. There is something here for everyone. And Lake District is one such place too. As we had just a day in hand, it had to be spent wisely. We had pre-booked a boat ride at Ullswater steamers starting from Pooley Bridge and ending at Glenridding and this is what we did first.
Post the breathtaking steamer ride, we spent some time at the lake and then drove by lake Windermere to an aquarium. Later we went to Hill Top, the home and gardens of writer Beatrix Potter. It was a busy Friday and our entry ticket had an hour and a half of waiting time. We spent this time at a nearby village called Hawkshead which looked like it was taken right out of Beatrix Potter’s imagination. After a cup of delectable Hot chocolate with marshmallows at Ginny’s Teapot, we headed back to Hill Top and were in awe of knowing her life a little more closely.
Later we spent time at Coniston waters, another lake nearby. After driving around Derventwater and Buttermere, we reached Castlerigg Stone circle for that day’s sunset. This stone circle is supposed to have been erected centuries back to hold important meetings of trade. The view around the field and the skyline was incredible. We finished the day at the town of Keswick where I found a bookshop (‘cos no journey is complete without one of those!).
Day 8 - Journey back home
It was that time of the journey to scroll through the nearly Two Thousand pictures taken and talk about them all, trying to find which part of a mountain went where. It was that time of the journey to realise how tired we really were and yet how fulfilled and gratified we felt after this whole experience. It was a drive back with prolonged silences and sudden bursts of conversations as we all mulled over the week that was. It was that time of the journey where playlists filled the silences and mustard fields waved back at us. As I looked at the cotton-candy clouds over a clear blue sky, I could see the shapes of sheep of all sizes, the hairy and cute Highland cattle and even a couple of Kelpies.